Monstera

Chalk it up to their festive colors, their long-lasting blooms, or just lovely tradition—certain plants have become staples of the winter holiday season. Even with today's houseplant craze, poinsettia and cyclamen are still going strong as decorations and gifts. Here are some tips I've gathered to help you enjoy the plants you receive—and to share when you give plants to others.

Poinsettia (Euphorbia pulcherrima)

Poinsettia in bloom does best with bright light, normal room temperatures (60°–70°F), and regular watering. These conditions keep those gorgeous bracts (modified leaves) looking their best. Yep, those showy, colorful "petals" aren't actually the flowers—the real flowers are those tiny yellow dots at the center of the bracts. Most folks toss their poinsettia once the bracts fade, but if you want to keep one going long-term, check outthe handy holiday-based guidedevised by Dr. Leonard Perry at the University of Vermont.

Amaryllis (Hippeastrum)

Amaryllis usually comes as a bulb for you to pot up yourself. Plant it so the top third pokes above the soil—it looks odd, but that's the way! Set it in bright light and water sparingly until a flower bud appears, then step up the watering. Whatever you do, don't move the plant once the bud shows up, or it may drop off. When the flower fades, cut back on water but keep feeding every two weeks until midfall. Then let the soil dry out completely and let the bulb rest dormant for eight weeks. Read more details in"How to Pot and Care for an Amaryllis Bulb."

Florists' cyclamen (Cyclamen persicum)

Set it in bright light but away from direct sun—a cool room (55°–65°F) is where cyclamen are happiest. Since it grows from tubers, you need to water carefully to avoid rot. I like to stand the pot in a dish of water until the soil surface feels damp, then let it drain. Pull or snip off spent flowers and yellowed leaves at the base of their stalks. When flowering winds down, let the soil dry out and keep the pot somewhere cool until growth picks up again from the tubers. Read more in"Growing Potted Cyclamen as a Houseplant."

Flaming katy (Kalanchoe blossfeldiana)

With those succulent leaves, this fall- and winter-blooming plant handles hot, dry rooms like a champ. Give it bright light and go easy on the water. Getting flaming katy to rebloom can be tricky—I won't lie—but a summer outdoors in light shade, followed by an autumn stretch in a room with no artificial light, might just do the trick.

Norfolk Island pine (Araucaria heterophylla)

This non-bloomer has become such a popular holiday houseplant lately—decorate a small one with white lights and mini ornaments and you've got the cutest little Christmas tree! The best part? It's way easier to keep looking good as a houseplant after the holidays than a real tree. Place it in a bright spot with some direct sun and cool winter temps. Keep the soil moist, but ease up on watering in winter. It loves humid air—I mist mine at least once a week to prevent needle yellowing, or cluster it with other houseplants so they create their own little humid microclimate together. Read more in"Norfolk Island Pine for Christmas and Beyond."

Christmas cactus (Schlumbergeraxbuckleyi)

These frilly-flowered old-time favorites are so easy to care for, as long as you remember they aren't desert cacti—they're actually from the tropical rain forest, where they grow perched on tree limbs. So in other words, water them regularly and give them bright but filtered light. Read more details in the post"Christmas Cactus Care and How to Make It Bloom."